Fashion And Culture: Transformation Of Getup Based On Gender Through Fashion Images Of Print Media

Abstract Media holds a great influence to transform cultural standards of a place. The main objective of the research was to assess the transformation in male and female clothing, makeup, hair styles and shoes through fashion images of selected newspapers of Pakistan. Furthermore, to identify the factors that leads to transform overall getup of male and female. Quantitative content analysis was performed and fashion photographs published in three leading English newspapers of Pakistan (Dawn, The News and The Nation) and three leading Urdu newspapers (Jang, Nawa- I- waqt and Express) during selected years were assessed. Findings revealed that Females models got more coverage as compare to male models. Majority of the male models were wearing western dresses (52.9%) whereas majority of female models were wearing traditional dresses (54.9). The results of the analysis explicate the significant difference between the dressing of groups on the basis of gender [F(3, 3116) = 4.518, p=0.012]; hairstyle [F(3, 3116) = 6.378, p=0.004]; makeup [F(3, 3116) = 5.315, p=0.010]; and footwear [F(3, 3116) = 16.627, p=0.000]. The eta squared calculated for dressing, hairstyle, makeup and footwear was 0.051, 0.056, 0.049 and 0.015 respectively showing moderate effect. There was more variation in terms of female models’ getup as compared to male models’ getup. Furthermore environmental, socio-cultural, global trends and religious events have moderate effects in terms of transforming dressing, hairstyles, make up looks and foot-ware of males and females in Pakistan. 

Keywords: Fashion, Culture, Print media, Cultural transformation, dressing, hair styles, makeup, footwear

Introduction

 Fashion is a versatile power that generally assume a significant part in the development of human culture (Okonkwo, 2016, p.1), though transformation is an act of social change that delivers a reliable type of progress in by and large culture. (Briody& Meerwarth, 2016).

Fashion

Fashion is ranked the world's utmost significant inventive businesses. It is the foremost production of international business everybody attires clothing and unavoidably contributes in fashion to some extent. Fashion is also a substance of occasionally revived attraction in almost every social science (Hemphill & Suk, 2009). Fashion is assumed as a powerful tool and has an important part in the evolution of a culture (Okonkwo, 2016), while cultural change is a process of transformation that creates a process of alteration in the organizational traditions and customs. (Briody & Meerwarth 2016).

According to Ledezma (2017) globalization has played a major role in the fashion business, the swift evolution of this industry is undoubtedly one of the important impact of globalization. Due to globalization, the fashion business has opened up new styles, influences and creative methods. As a result fashion has become easy for consumers around the world. Fashion as something that includes more than fashion as fashion is a multifaceted thing born in many ways. The differences in fashion studies also reflect the different types of definitions used and invoked (Edwards, 2010). In our contemporary world fashion is synonymous with style, dress, adornment, decoration, and clothing. (Seymour, 2008). In the same way, fashion means more than just clothes, but there is no limit to fashion. The main focus is clothing, but it can include a person's overall appearance, getup or their overall outfit. A ceremonial dress or costume, for example, includes not only clothes, but also footwear, Makeup, Hairstyles, accessories etc. Fashion is not just clothes, nor is it just a set of images. Rather, it is a vivacious shape of visual and worldly culture that plays an imperative part in social and cultural life. It is a most important economic power, among the top ten businesses in developing countries (Arnold, 2009).Fashion as a phenomenon involves far more than fashion as dress Fashion is a multifaceted phenomenon studied in a multitude of ways. The variation in the traditions fashion also reflects the multiplicity of senses used and invoke (Edwards, 2010). Fashion is an influential force that shapes how we look and feel, and influences how we are perceived by others. (Ng,2004)

Super Hot Models

Culture

Culture is expressed as the backbone of a society; therefore no one can ignore the importance of culture in a society (Bakar & Connaughton, 2009). So culture is a process that transmits the values of civilization through products or other shapes of value. (Campbell, Martin & Fabos, 2014).Culture is considered a practice that brings the standards of a society all the way through products or further meaning-making appearances. (Campbell, Martin & Fabos, B,2014) According to the social notion of culture, this is the ultimate setting in which society directs its rules and values (Baran, 2014). Every society's foundation rests on its culture. No one can live in peace without culture. The foundation of a civilization's inhabitants' life is its culture. (Cohen, 2009). Culture can be characterized as the strength of each and every civilization, so nobody can lack of concern the situation with culture in a general public (Bakar and Connaughton, 2009). Pakistani society holds diversification in terms of culture and having four cultures (Punjabi, Pakhtun and Baloch, Sindhi), there are many differences between ethnic values, language and lifestyle and even ethics are different and it is realized that Pakistani culture is a collective affair. The traditional values, lifestyle and behavior of the people existing in India are varying and they are on their journey of westernization(Hakim & Aziz, 1998)

Fashion,

 Culture and Media Culture cannot be imagined without the media and fashion media is a tool to depict, access, and comprehend various cultures (Tolic, 2011). Journalism especially fashion journalism have always been crucial to modernization, the establishment of modernism, and transition. As a form of journalism and cultural output, media contents provide a textual guide to "what is in fashion" in terms of clothing, accessories, languages, people, and locations (Jinna, 2006).

Innovation is the cornerstone of fashion content. They allow editorial sites, newspapers or magazines to stand out from the competition and bring their own ideas to events or topics of discussion. For branded content, they provide an added value - "exclusion" - beyond just commerce. And for brands and e-commerce sellers, they help deepen customer relationships and build brand identity. (Bradford, 2019). Whereas, Modern print media permitted everyday readers to connect with new thoughts beyond what their leaders communicated to them. Modern individualism and the industrial revolution also caused new ways of hierarchy in which some individuals and groups achieved higher standing in the social order (Campbell, Martin & Fabos,2014). The relationship between fashions the media and the fashion industry are closer than in many other areas of journalism. (Bradford, 2014). Kristensen (2010) Contemporary traditional journalism - and the tension between culture, lifestyle and consumption - is valuable and important to newspapers as a media company. However, individual newspapers handle the style and content of their coverage of these topics very differently, depending on their current editorial profile. As a result, cultural journalism is a subject of editorial importance and diversity.

Fashion Images A fashion photo is simply a photo taken purposely to demonstrate (or in a number of cases refer to) clothing or accessories, generally for the purpose of cataloging or selling fashion. (Hall-Duncan, 2010). Fashion photography is rarely analyzed by scholars in the fields of cultural or journalism studies although it has increasingly become a subject for investigation in fashion studies (Le Masurier, 2020). Fashion is not just clothes, or a collection of images. Rather, it is the dramatic nature of visual and worldly culture that performs an imperitive role in social and cultural life. It is a main economic control, along with the top ten companies in developing countries (Arnold, 2009). Brennen (2010) provides a concise debate of the chronological context adjoining the modern photojournalism and focused on the role of photojournalism in modern society. Jobling (1998) examined the conflict between text and image in fashion trends in print in three magazines since the 1980s: The Face, Arena and Vogue. As Lamb (2016) argues that photographs has the power to enhance realistic particulars of its themes, on the other hand the photographs in fashion newspapers and magazines performed Photoshop or further image manipulation software that increase the quality of photographs. Deficiencies and shot comings like dull hair, gloomy looks turned into glamorous looks.

 In order to understand the relation between fashion culture and media, Cultural Transformation Theory provided the foundation for this research. This theory helped in understanding the transformation in male and female getup through Pakistani English and Urdu newspapers. Eisler (2003) coined that culture goes through continuous transformation. The concern is whether the transformation is a superficial change in the unknown concepts of the management system or transformation that occurs at the level of the system. Our age of mass displacement is an opportunity for transformation: transformation that will support the social order. This theory advocate’s tat cultural transformation arises, the entire arrangement has to renovate, and individual and communal arrangement persuade cultural transformation. This theory is pertinent to the present study to  comprehend the Pakistani fashion and journalism in context of cultural transformation.

Significance of the Study Present research is an attempt to analyze the role of fashion images in transforming the overall getup of male and female. This transformation slowly and steadily leads towards the transform the overall culture of a society. This is also an attempt to identify the factors that leads towards transformation and ultimately play significant role in reshaping cultural values. Objectives of the Study 1. To assess the nature of male and female clothing, makeup, hair styles and shoes trends in the fashion images of selected newspapers. 2. To identify the factors that lead to transform cultural values in depiction of fashion images. Hypotheses H1. There is likely to be difference in the getup based on gender of models in the fashion images of selected newspaper. H2. Globalization is major factor that lead to cultural transformation depiction in fashion images in selected newspapers. H3.

 There is likely to be difference in the getup of models in the fashion images of selected newspapers. Research Design Quantitative research approach was applied and Content analysis was performed to measure the nature and transformation of male and female (getup) clothing, makeup, hair styles and shoes trends in the fashion images of selected newspapers during the selected time period. This study considered the fashion images published on every Sunday’s Editions of three leading English newspapers Dawn, The News and The Nation and three Urdu newspapers Jang, Nawa I waqt and express of Pakistan from January 2016 to December 2019. Fashion images Every 2nd issue of the selected newspapers fashion pages published on Sunday from the systematic sampling frame was analyzed and 5 images from every addition were analyzed in which male and female models were shown from head to toe. Unit of analysis selected for the present study were images published in the selected newspapers during the selected time period.

 The emergent/inductive categories were constructed to analyze the transformation of male and female get up. The getup was operationalized as dressing, hair style, make up and footwear. The nature of getup of male and female was further assessed through traditional, western, fusion and unrealistic categories. Coding sheet was used as an instrument for data collection in this research. Secondary date of newspapers was collected from different public libraries of Lahore. Two P.hD scholars fluent in Urdu and English language were coded all the variables. Analysis Figure 1 Gender-wise distribution of pictures Figure 1 presents the gender-wise distribution of the pictures appeared in all six selected newspapers. The analysis of findings shows that majority of the pictures (70%) were of female models and only 30% picture were of male models. So, for the further analysis the sample size would be like this characteristic of male photographs 938, and characteristic of female photographs 2182.

Table 1 Dress Type for Females Type of Dress Frequency Percentage Traditional 1200 54.9% Western 460 21.8% Fusion 364 16.6% Unrealistic 158 7.2% N=2182 Table 1 presents the findings regarding the dress used by female models in fashion images of selected English and Urdu dailies. Analysis of findings show that in majority of the images female model were wearing traditional dresses 1200 (54.9%). Almost one third of the female models 460(21.8%) were wearing western dresses. Whereas, 364 (16.6%) models followed fusion style of dressing and only 158(7.2%) females were showed in unrealistic Table 2 Dress Type of Males Type of Dress Frequency Percentage Traditional 298 31.7% Western 497 52.9% Fusion 128 13.6%

 Unrealistic 15 1.5% N=938 Table 2 shows the findings regarding the dress used by male models in fashion content of selected English and Urdu dailies. Analysis of findings show that in majority of the pictures male model were wearing western dresses 497 (52.9%). While 298 (31.7%) male models were wearing traditional dresses. 128(13.6%) models followed fusion style of dressing and only 15(1.5%) males were showed in unrealistic dressing. Table 3 Gender wise Analysis of Transformation of Getup in Fashion Content Measure Female Male F(3, 3116) η 2 Sig. M SD M SD Dressing 12.95 3.445 12.42 3.415 4.814 0.051 0.012 Hairstyle 34.93 8.134 32.42 9.240 6.378 0.056 0.004 Makeup 19.10 4.427 15.27 4.381 5.315 0.049 0.010 Footwear 38.23 10.089 34.65 11.355 16.627 0.015 0.000 N=3120 Table 3 shows the findings of ANOVA between the group to find out the difference in getup (dressing, hairstyle, makeup and footwear) on the bases of gender of models in fashion content of selected English and Urdu Dailies.

 The results of the analysis explicate the significant difference between the dressing of groups on the basis of gender [F(3, 3116) = 4.518, p=0.012]; hairstyle [F(3, 3116) = 6.378, p=0.004]; makeup [F(3, 3116) = 5.315, p=0.010]; and footwear [F(3, 3116) = 16.627, p=0.000]. The eta squared calculated for dressing, hairstyle, makeup and footwear was 0.051, 0.056, 0.049 and 0.015 respectively showing moderate effect. Furthermore, the difference was not only statistically significant but also the difference in the mean scores of the groups was considerable (see Table 3). Moreover, the Post-hoc comparisons were not applied because that was not possible as the groups were only two, hence it was not possible to determine the occurrence of difference between groups. Therefore, it can be concluded there was more variation in terms of female models’ getup in fashion content of selected dailies as compared to male models’ getup. Table 4 Factors that Lead to Cultural Transformation Depiction in Fashion Images Factors Frequency Percentage Environmental Factors 733 23.5%

Socio-cultural Factors 707 22.7% Globalization Trends 913 29.3% Religious Events 767 24.6% N=3120 Table 4 shows the findings regarding different factors due to which fashion content of selected English and Urdu dailies of Pakistan varies. The analysis of the findings depicts that globalization 913 (29.3%) is the major factor due to which fashion content of selected dailies changed and it performed the role of major contributor which change the fashion content trends. Religious events767 (24.6%) also played an important role in transforming the cultural trends of fashion content of selected dailies. The further analysis shows that environmental factors 733 (23.5%) followed by Socio-cultural factors 707 (22.7%) also changed the fashion content of selected dailies. Discussion and Conclusion The analysis of the findings showed that female models were covered more in fashion content of selected newspapers as compared to male models (see figure 1). The findings of the study show that there exists a difference in the getup of male and female models in selected newspapers. However, there was more variation in the getup of female models as compared to males models in fashion content of selected dailies (see table 3).

 It is also in line with the findings of Wasylkiw et al., (2009) that while giving coverage to female models in print media their appearance is highlighted more. Generally, female models appearing print media they were more likely to be emphasized on their appearance than on their performance. Third hypothesis of the study was about reasons of cultural transformation in the fashion content of over the time. This study explored environmental factors, socio cultural factors, religious factors and globalization. Among all reasons explored in this research study globalization was the major reason which changed the fashion content of selected newspapers (see table 4). So, the findings of the study have supported the third hypothesis of the study. 

One apparent reason of these findings could be that globalization has brought a change in the fashion trends of all countries even fashion industry is following the trends of western countries (Alyssa, 2020). It is also in line with Ledezma (2017) due to globalization fashion industry has opted many new styles not only in dresses but also in overall look of a person from hair style to footwear and these new trends are also affecting the media content. Fashion houses uses all type of media to display their products. Moderate effects of globalization is playing significant role in affecting the culture more than environmental, religious, and socio-cultural factors. All These factors are playing crucial role to transform getup styles of male and female in through fashion images Print media of Pakistan.

 The transformation is slow and steadily transforming the traditional getup of male and female of Pakistan. Dopatta and covering head is getting is no longer shown in fashion images where are male are shown in western dressing as compare to traditional shalwar Kameez. Future researchers should focus upon the comparative and critical analysis of national and international fashion media, to explore the unveil the factors behind the phenomenon. References 1. Baran, S. J., & Hidalgo Toledo, J. A. (2005). Introduction to mass communication: media 

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